I arrived on La Palma by ferry. Even the journey itself felt cinematic – the presence of police and emergency services, alarm announcements on board and clear instructions never to touch the hot lava. Most of the passengers were seniors, many of whom seemed as if they had already lived through everything – even a volcanic eruption was taken with remarkable calm.
The closer we got to the island, the more the atmosphere changed – darkness fell (in the early morning), rain started, and the air became heavy and humid. From the very first moments, La Palma gives the feeling of a separate micro-world.
An earthquake – an unforgettable experience
While driving through the mountains wrapped in a volcanic cloud, something completely unexpected happened. First, slight vibrations under my feet, then a sound like a giant sheet of foil sliding down, and moments later – rocks falling from the nearby slopes. It was an earthquake, about 4.5 on the Richter scale.
It is the kind of moment that makes you realise how little a human being means in the face of nature.
September 2021 – the beginning of the disaster
The guide told the story of what happened in September 2021. A series of minor tremors, a meeting with residents advising them to prepare evacuation bags, and reassurances that most likely nothing would happen.
Not everyone believed that.
On Sunday morning, after driving a few kilometres to visit friends, he heard a strange sound. He stepped outside, thinking it was a helicopter. Instead, he saw a stream of red lava flowing from the Cumbre Vieja crater – about 500 metres from where he was standing.
Today, his home and the houses of his friends lie under 20–30 metres of solidified lava.
The landscape after the eruption
The areas around the volcano are covered with a thick layer of black ash that looks like volcanic sand. The ash reaches even the most remote parts of the island.
As you approach the crater, it is hard to believe what you hear – the volcano works constantly, roaring like a jet engine. Lava flows into the ocean, creating new land, accompanied by huge clouds of steam, smoke and powerful waves.
El Paso – observing the volcano
From the area around the local church in El Paso, you can observe the entire region affected by the eruption. The air smells of sulphur, vast fields of black lava are visible, with streams of glowing red magma running between them.
The media report on the situation constantly, but nothing can convey what it feels like to be there in person.
Life on packed suitcases
Many residents were evacuated. I didn’t stay on the island overnight. The lack of accommodation and the real fear of further tremors made me take the last ferry back to Tenerife. Long after my return, the smell of sulphur lingered – as if my skin and hair were still saturated with ash and smoke.
It is hard to imagine living in a constant state of readiness to evacuate, watching neighbourhoods flooded by lava and homes destroyed. One of the most affected districts was called “Paradise”.
Volcanic beach on La Palma:
Canary Island pines – a miracle of adaptation
La Palma is home to unique Canary Island pines that can survive fires and eruptions:
- needles grow directly from the bark,
- the bark is thick and saturated with resin,
- the trees regenerate quickly after contact with fire.
It is one of the most extraordinary examples of plant adaptation to extreme conditions.
Isla Bonita – the beautiful island
La Palma is known as Isla Bonita – “the beautiful island”. Here you will find black volcanic beaches, dozens of hiking trails and minerals such as olivine (peridot) – a green stone often fused with solidified lava.
The dominant colours of the island are volcanic black and the intense green of vegetation – a contrast that stays in your memory for a long time.
La Palma is a place for those who love nature in its wildest form. It is not only beautiful, but also demanding – constantly reminding us that humans are only guests here.
Malvina Dunder 
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